New High Score: How my expectations got blown out of the water and my stoke reached an all-time high. I planned to just catch a few. 3.5hrs later I was completely gassed and stoked out of my mind. Here’s how it happened: Looking at the forecast last night, I knew the swell was backing off […]
Category: Musings
Tiers of Freedom
John and Luke from Australia are living in a van, parked in the dirt lot atop the small cliff. They’ve driven the coast of France, Spain, Portugal, and into Morocco. Dave from California rented a place, is working from home, and will be here all season. Ciera and Jim from London came here for two […]
The Sound of Surf
We listen to the ocean differently. Imagination While some may listen to waves breaking on the beach as a calming mechanism to lull their brain activity… for a surfer it’s more likely to stoke the imagination. A 3 second sound bite could lead to hours of day dreaming. ‘I wonder what that wave is like. […]