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Surf Guide: Hainan, China

I had heard from a few sources that there were actually good waves in China, many of which were uncrowded. I took the first few accounts with a big grain of salt, as any cautious surfer who knows anything about the validity of surf reports from other surfers should. But a few credible sources peaked my curiousity enough for me to go find out for myself.

I went to Hainan Island, often dubbed the “Hawaii of China”, and was pleasantly surprised in multiple aspects of the trip. Here’s what I learned and what you should know before you go. 

Conditions & Forecasting for Hainan

Hainan’s surf is generated by nearshore storms and is highly seasonal. The winter has relatively consistent waves but the summer is mostly flat, with the exception of a typhoon swell. 

Swell in Southern China

Hainan’s surfability hinges primarily on two major weather patterns: the Northeast (NE) Winter Monsoon and the Summer Southerlies, punctuated by the potential for powerful Typhoon swells.

Primary Season (Winter NE Monsoon: November – March/April) 

This period represents Hainan’s prime surf season, particularly for the island’s eastern coastline, centered around the Wanning region. 

Driven by the consistent NE monsoon, this season offers reliable surf. About 80% of the days between November and February are surfable. The dominant swell direction (NE) aligns with the orientation of Hainan’s central and Southwest coastline creating numerous left-hand point breaks. Spots like Riyue Bay, Shimei Bay, and others in the Wanning area come alive during this time. 

However, it’s crucial to manage expectations; while consistent, these monsoon swells often produce “mellow” waves lacking significant power. The waves are generated from short-period wind swell resulting in slower, softer waves. 

Secondary Season (Summer Southerlies: April/May – October)

As the winter monsoon fades, the focus shifts to the south coast, primarily around Sanya. During these months, swells generated by weather patterns in the South China Sea arrive from the south or southeast. Surf consistency drops significantly compared to winter, with about 30% surfable days. 

Spots like Sanya Bay, Yalong Bay, and the popular beginner hub of Houhai become the main targets. 

Typhoon Season (May – November) 

Overlapping significantly with the summer southerly season, the typhoon season introduces the potential for powerful, high-quality swells. These storms, tracking through the South China Sea or West Pacific, can generate significant groundswell with longer periods, potentially impacting both east and south coasts. 

Waves can reach substantial sizes (8-10 feet or more), and certain spots are known to handle these conditions well. I haven’t experienced a typhoon swell in Hainan yet so can’t speak from personal experience. While some surfers I met said there can be 8-10 typhoons producing rideable waves per season, others said it’s more like 1-2. 

Typhoon swells can be hard to track and dangerous. In addition, authorities often close beaches and enforce surfing bans during typhoon events due to safety concerns. 

My recommendation for traveling to China for surf is to go during the winter months when it’s much more consistent and you’re almost guaranteed to get a few surfable days. 

Swell Dynamics in Hainan China

The primary source of waves in Hainan comes from NE Monsoons in the winter. Generated by the pressure gradient between high pressure over mainland China and lower pressure to the south, these are the most reliable source of surf. 

They typically exhibit moderate periods, averaging 10-12 seconds, though longer periods up to 17 seconds are possible under specific conditions. These swells primarily light up the east coast’s famed left point breaks, but often lack the raw power found in ocean groundswells from larger storm systems. 

The prevalence of these quality left points, perfectly angled to receive the NE swell, is a key reason why winter is considered the peak season for quality surf in Hainan.

Wind Patterns: Offshore Breezes and Onshore Chop

Wind conditions are critical in shaping Hainan’s waves, particularly during the monsoon season.

Winter Winds: 

The prevailing NE monsoon brings dominant Northeast winds.11 Crucially for surfers, these winds blow directly offshore at the numerous east-coast left point breaks (like Riyue Bay, Shimei Bay, Golf Course). 

This natural geographical advantage grooms the incoming NE swells, creating cleaner, more organized wave faces ideal for surfing. Riyue Bay, for instance, benefits specifically from Northwest offshore winds and also offers some shelter from direct NE winds. While ideal for wave quality, these persistent northerly winds, especially stronger gusts, can introduce significant wind chill, making the water feel colder than the temperature might suggest (more on this below). 

Summer Winds 

Wind patterns become more variable during the summer months. Locals informed me and forecasts confirm that the wind is often onshore or side shore. Headlands can offer some protection in a few areas, but it’s not enough to bank on for a surf trip.

Tidal Influences in Hainan

Hainan’s tidal fluctuations are fairly moderate. Areas like Riyue Bay have a range of around 3-4 feet. I experienced low and high tide surfing at Riyue Bay and can confirm that the lower tide is better for shortboarding as the waves break a little bit faster. While the high tide waves are fatter and slower, in my experience they were noticeably bigger on the high tide. 

Specific surf spots might be more sensitive, but in my experience tides were a secondary consideration compared to swell and wind conditions.

Water Temperature & Wetsuit Needs

Hainan’s tropical climate provides warm water year-round. Average water temperatures hover between 22-26°C (72-79°F). 

Despite the warm water, winter does warrant a wetsuit. I thought I’d be okay with my board shorts because of the water temp, but often found I was the only one in the water without a wetsuit. Windchill is the main factor dropping the temperature. Most days had at least a light breeze and were overcast. Some days it was also drizzling. 

A top or light spring suit is enough to keep you warm. You just need something to keep the wind off your back. Wetsuit recommendations generally follow:

  • October – late November: Possibly no wetsuit needed, but consider a vest or top for wind.
  • November – December: A springsuit (short arms/legs or long arms/short legs) is advisable due to wind chill.
  • January – March: A light fullsuit, such as a 2mm or an old 3/2mm steamer, is recommended for comfort during longer sessions or on windier days.

It’s also noted that water temperatures in the far north of Hainan can be up to 4°C colder than in the south, potentially necessitating slightly thicker rubber if surfing in those areas during winter, although that area doesn’t catch much swell. 

Board Selection

I was very glad I had my small wave board, could have used my shortboard a few days, and possibly my best surf was on a longboard a friend let me borrow. Here’s what I’d recommend for surfing Hainan.

Best Boards for Hainan’s Waves

Since the swells reaching Hainan lack significant power, more foam is your friend. Boards with more volume and speed, such as longboards, mid-lengths, funboards, or fish shapes, will help you get into weaker waves and cruise through slower section.  

Since it’s difficult to travel with a longboard, I’d recommend taking a fun board and if you want to longboard you can find one to rent. 

What are the locals riding?

There are plenty of Chinese surfing performance shortboards in Hainan, but in my opinion riding a small board on that wave is a lot of work and not the right match. On a low tide and stronger swell at a break like Riyue or Golf Course, a shortboard will be fun. But these sessions are less frequent. 

Board Logistics

Deciding whether to bring personal surfboards or rent locally involves weighing convenience against equipment familiarity and the significant logistical hurdles of board transport.

Surfboard Rentals 

Renting boards is a viable option in Hainan’s main surf hubs.

  • Availability: Surf schools and clubs in Riyue Bay and Houhai village near Sanya offer rentals. This relatively developed rental infrastructure caters to the growing number of tourists and beginner surfers.
  • Types: Expect to find soft-top beginner boards, standard shortboards, longboards, and potentially Stand-Up Paddleboards (SUPs). The quality and range of performance boards will be limited compared to bringing your own quiver. Some rentals might be locally manufactured boards, which have garnered mixed reviews regarding quality and durability. I have not ridden one, but a friend unboxed one while I was there and I was impressed with the shape, style, and quality upon inspection. 
  • Costs: Daily rental rates typically range from $5-10. Shorter rentals directly from beach vendors might be slightly cheaper, but this is limited mostly to soft tops and epoxy learner boards. 
Traveling with Your Own Board

A few things to note when traveling with your own board in Hainan:

Motorbikes – Renting a motorbike with surf racks is easy and affordable. For around $5 USD per day you can get a small electric motorbike that will be enough for cruising around town and getting down to the beach.

Mixed Reception from Taxis – At the airport a driver in a standard four door sedan was happy to accommodate my boards at no extra charge. He adjusted the front seat, placing my board bag in the front, while I rode in the back. Later in the trip, another taxi hailed by the ride app DiDi refused to take my boards. Another seemed to not know what they were and I had to help show him how to lower the back seat of his SUV to fit them in the back. 

No Boards On The Train? – I was told by locals that surfboards are not allowed on the train… but as a foreigner you may be able to get away with it. I did not test it, as I preferred the convenience of a car from the ride-hailing app through WeChat the few times I needed to relocate with my boards. 

Navigating Hainan: Getting to the Surf

For short trips to the beach from your hotel or homestay, a motorbike with surf racks will do. If you need to go further, to other areas of the island, you’ll likely need to make friends with someone who has a car or call a cab. Based on my experience it’s best to stay near where you want to surf. Locals are very friendly and may be up for helping you get to a few spots further away, so don’t be afraid to make new friends.

The Lineup: Crowds, Culture & Vibe

Hainan’s surf scene is dynamic, characterized by increasing crowds, a diverse mix of surfers, and a unique, evolving culture that blends tropical relaxation with Chinese characteristics and government influence.

Crowd Levels: Navigating the Masses

While Hainan offers escapes from the mainland’s megacities, its popular surf spots are far from empty. Crowding has become more noticeable as surfing’s popularity booms in China. Certain spots and times are particularly affected:

Riyue Bay (Wanning): As Hainan’s most famous break and host to international competitions and national team training, Riyue Bay can get quite busy when the surf is up. The lineup is a mix of visiting surfers, local enthusiasts, large groups of surf school students, and highly skilled athletes from provincial and national teams, especially during training seasons (November/December are noted as particularly busy with teams). I had good luck with sessions early in the morning (before 9 am), during lunch breaks, and at sunset. The key time to avoid is 9-11am and 2-5pm which is the the peak training times of the official teams. 

Houhai Bay (Sanya): This bay has rapidly become a hotspot, particularly known for beginner surfers and domestic tourists seeking an active, affordable alternative to Sanya’s resorts. The beach can get very busy, especially in the afternoons and evenings when a lively party atmosphere takes hold. The entrance area can also be congested due to ferry traffic for nearby Wuzhizhou Island. However, once past the main throng, the beach itself is sometimes described as more “low-key” than other Sanya beaches. The crowding here is largely composed of learners and tourists enjoying the social scene.

Quieter Alternatives: For surfers seeking solitude, exploring beyond the main hubs is key. Spots like Shimei Bay, Fuli Bay, and Xintan Bay (all generally in the Wanning/Lingshui area) are increasingly attracting surfers looking for less-crowded waves. South coast spots like Jinzonglu and Dadonghai are also noted for having fewer crowds, though wave consistency at Dadonghai is questionable and access may be restricted. 

Visiting during major Chinese national holidays (especially Chinese New Year in Jan/Feb and the May Day holiday) is not recommended due to mass tourism influx, which leads to extremely crowded beaches and inflated prices.

Surfer Demographics & Skill Level

The surfers in Hainan’s waters are a diverse group. You’ll find the original generation of local Chinese surfers who pioneered the scene, alongside a rapidly growing contingent of newer domestic enthusiasts inspired by the trend. Expatriates living in China also surf but are much less common. During my two-week stay I saw less than 10 non-Chinese surfers out in the lineup. 

The Vibe & Etiquette

Hainan’s surf culture is certainly unique. I saw some of the best longoarding I’ve seen anywhere else at Riyue Bay but also saw surfers in the lineup who didn’t understand what priority was. 

The general atmosphere is friendly and relaxed. Although some locals did inform surfers who were inexperienced when they were breaking the rules, it was not aggressive or confrontational. I didn’t see any aggressive localism, but it wasn’t an all-out “party wave” scene in Riyue Bay. Overall it felt like a relaxed, less strict lineup than any other point break I’ve surfed. 

While you aren’t likely to be shunned as a visiting surfer, you may get an unintentional drop in. I recommend still being very respectful of the locals, giving them the priority at their home wave, and also keeping calm if someone unintentionally drops in on you. 

Overlaying this grassroots development is the significant influence of the Chinese government’s push to develop surfing as an Olympic sport. This has brought investment in facilities (like the surf center at Riyue Bay), attracted foreign coaching expertise, and importantly, increased the sport’s legitimacy, leading to less hassle from authorities who previously viewed surfers with suspicion. However, this top-down approach also directly contributes to crowding through the presence of large training squads and may accelerate the commercialization of surf spots, potentially altering the original “soul surfer” atmosphere that attracted early pioneers.

Hainan Surf Spot Snapshot

Spot NameRegionWave Type
Riyue Bay – Main LeftWanning (East)Left Point Break
Riyue Bay – BeachieWanning (East)Beach Break
Riyue Bay – Ghost HotelWanning (East)Left Point Break
Houhai BaySanya (South)Beach / Mellow Reef
Shimei BayWanning (East)Left Point / Beach Break
Fuli Bay / Xintan BayLingshui (East)Left Point / Beach Break
Dadonghai BaySanya (South)Beach Break
JinzongluSanya (South)Beach Break
Golf Course / Gui LangWanning (East)Left Point / Right Reef (?)

Essential Hainan Surf Travel Intel

Navigating the surf in Hainan is actually the easy part. The real challenge is in the practical realities concerning communication, connectivity, accommodation, supplies, and safety. 

Language & Communication

The language barrier is a significant challenge. English is not widely spoken outside of major international hotels and dedicated tourist services. Functional Mandarin Chinese is highly advantageous, if not essential, for independent travel, interacting with local service providers (taxi drivers, small shops), and navigating daily life. 

I was surprised to find that even at the restaurants, motorbike rental shops, and convenience stores, employees spoke no English. Now I know how foreigners must feel when they come to America.  

A translation app is critical if you aren’t planning to study Mandarin for at least a few months before arrival… but be aware that Google Translate won’t work in China (sometimes even with a VPN). You’ll need to learn a suite of new apps for this trip.

Connectivity & Apps

Internet access can sometimes be limited, particularly in more remote areas.3 More importantly, accessing the global internet as most Westerners know it requires overcoming China’s Great Firewall. A reliable Virtual Private Network (VPN) is absolutely essential if you want to access international websites and apps such as Google services (Search, Maps, Gmail), Facebook, Instagram, WhatsApp, Twitter, and many Western news outlets.

The mainstream VPNs are also blocked, so make sure to do a little research before you arrive and set your phone or computer up with a couple recommended ones that aren’t blocked. 

Several smartphone apps are crucial for navigating modern China:

  • WeChat: The ubiquitous super-app used for messaging, social media, and, critically, mobile payments. Many smaller vendors may only accept WeChat Pay or Alipay.
  • Baidu Maps: The Chinese version of Google Maps. Note that it’s only in Chinese, but it works and is much more accurate than Google Maps in China.  
  • Baidu Translate: The Chinese version of Google Translate. It’s quite good and can be navigated with a little trial and error. 
  • Trip.com: China’s leading online travel agency for booking flights, trains, and accommodation. You’ll find many more options here than on other western sites like Booking or Expedia.

Accommodation

Hainan offers a wide spectrum of accommodation options catering to different budgets and preferences. In surf hubs like Riyue Bay and Houhai, choices range from budget-friendly hostels and local guesthouses (homestays) to mid-range hotels. For those seeking more comfort or amenities, international standard luxury resorts are available, strategically located near quality breaks in Shimei Bay or the Marriott in Fuli Bay. 

Surf Supplies & Repairs

In general, I prefer to bring all essential supplies, including ample surf wax (tropical formula), spare leash, fins, fin keys, sunscreen, and a basic ding repair kit. While surf supplies are available in major hubs, the quality and availability vary widely. The last thing I want to do on a surf trip is spend a whole day searching for sunscreen that doesn’t have a skin whitening element to it.

There are several small boutique surf shops in the Riyuan area, but they have more clothes than actual surf supplies.

Safety & Hazards

While generally safe, there are a few things to be aware of:

  • Rocks & Reefs: Many of the point breaks have a sandy beach but are reef underneath the break. Submerged rocks can be hazardous, especially at low tide. Watch where the locals surf and paddle out, and proceed with caution as you learn the break. 
  • Marine Life: Jellyfish and sea lice will provide short-lasting stings, but are more of an annoyance than a threat.
  • Water Quality: The water is generally considered acceptable for surfing. Due to the relatively shallow nature of the South China Sea, water clarity can decrease during swells as sediment gets stirred up, but this is not usually indicative of pollution. There is a bit of litter and some runoff, but it’s generally not an issue.
  • Access Restrictions & Closures: Surfers must be aware that access is not always guaranteed. Authorities may close beaches during typhoon swells for safety reasons. Some beaches might be generally off-limits to surfing or have designated swimming areas where surfing is prohibited. Lifeguards actively enforce these zones. While relations with authorities have improved since surfing gained Olympic status, I’d recommend respecting local regulations and instructions from lifeguards or officials.

Food & Drink

Hainan offers a variety of Chinese foods and few options for western food. Food stalls, local eateries, and convenience stores are available in and around surf villages like Riyue Bay and Houhai. You can view menus, translate them, submit an order, and pay all through WeChat in most restaurants. Even small street venders accept digital payment via WeChat or AliPay by scanning their QR code. 

The cost is very reasonable, food quality relatively high, and it’s clean and safe.  

Surf Trip To Hainan? Final Call

I’d recommend going if:

  1. You enjoy longboarding or funboarding on laidback waves
  2. You like surfing and want to experience China
  3. You want to keep your budget low
  4. You’re looking for a surfing stopover between North America and Southeast Asia 

I’d skip it if:

  1. You haven’t traveled much and may struggle with adjusting to a foreign area with a completely different operating system
  2. You have 1-2 weeks vacation and want to get shacked… go to Indonesia instead

Surf Guide: Southwest Sri Lanka

I spent a few weeks in Sri Lanka this year to see what the hype was all about. Here’s what I learned, and just about everything you need to know before you go.

An Introduction to Southwest Sri Lanka Surfing

Southwest Sri Lanka beckons surfers with the promise of a vibrant, tropical escape. This stretch of coastline is known for its remarkably consistent surf, comfortably warm waters hovering around 27-30°C (81-86°F) year-round, and a backdrop of lush landscapes.

The region offers a diverse array of wave types, including beach breaks, reef breaks (both shallow and deep), and point breaks, catering particularly well to beginner and intermediate surfers looking to progress, while still offering some quality waves for the more experienced.

Key surf hubs like Hikkaduwa, the Ahangama-Midigama area, and Weligama serve as focal points for the surf community, each offering a distinct atmosphere and access to numerous breaks.

In addition to the surf, the locals are friendly, they have a unique culture, interesting wildlife, great food, and very reasonable prices.

Forecasting Surf in Southwest Sri Lanka

The Southwest Surf Season (November – April)

The optimal window for surfing the Southwest coast runs from November through April. This period coincides with the region’s dry season, offering warm, sunny days and the most consistent swells and favorable wind conditions. Within this broader season, the absolute peak, often yielding the cleanest and most reliable waves, is typically considered to be December to March.

October/November and April are considered shoulder months; good surf can still be found, potentially with the added benefit of fewer crowds compared to the high season.

This contrasts with the Southwest’s “off-season,” roughly from May to October. During these months, the Southwest monsoon (Yala season) brings increased rainfall and prevailing onshore winds, generally leading to less favorable, choppier surf conditions.

The East coast of Sri Lanka, however, has better conditions at this time. While the breaks of the East coast do not offer a realistic commute from the Southwest, you could plan to move your home base if you’re there for both seasons.

While many premier reef breaks may not work well, the south coast’s direct exposure means swell still reaches the shore, and surfable waves can often be found, particularly in more sheltered bays like Weligama or spots protected from the westerly winds. However, the variety of working breaks is reduced, and some tourist establishments may close during this period.

Swell Quality: Understanding Groundswells, Directions, and Size

Waves in Southwest Sri Lanka primarily originate as groundswells generated by storms far south in the Indian and Antarctic Oceans. These are the same swells that eventually reach the shores of Indonesia, but the waves in Sri Lanka are much more mellow.

The dominant swell direction hitting the Southwest coast is from the South (S) and Southwest (SW).

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Some specific breaks, like Plantations Point and The Rock at Kabalana, are noted to work optimally on a South-Southwest (SSW) angle.

Swell consistency is a major draw during the November-April season, when typical wave heights range from 1-2 meters (2 to 6 feet; approximately waist-high to slightly overhead. Waves frequently reach head-high and occasional larger swells can push heights towards double overhead, although this is less common than in more exposed locations like Indonesia.

Wave Quality

The wave quality is often described as approachable, fun, mellow, and consistent – ideal for intermediate surfers or those progressing their skills. While not typically characterized by the heavy, hollow barrels found in Indonesia, Sri Lankan waves offer softer drops and slower rides.

Certain spots, however, particularly reef breaks like Rams Right in Midigama, The Rock in Kabalana, or some setups in Hikkaduwa, can offer more power, steeper sections, and even occasional barrels, especially on larger swells.

Rams surf break on a smaller day. This is typical of the wave though. It breaks quickly and usually has a small shoulder making for a short and quick ride.

Wind Systems

Wind conditions are arguably as critical as swell for determining wave quality in Sri Lanka, and understanding the monsoon patterns is key. The prime surf season in the Southwest (November-April) coincides with the Northeast (NE) Monsoon, also known as the Maha Season (roughly October to March).

Crucially, this NE monsoon generates offshore winds in the mornings (blowing from the North or Northeast) along the Southwest coast.

Late afternoons or evenings can also sometimes see a return to favorable winds. However, as the day progresses, winds often shift, becoming onshore or cross-shore by the afternoon, which can degrade wave quality.

This favorable wind pattern during the NE monsoon highlights an interesting dynamic: the best surfing conditions on the Southwest coast are often a result of winds generated by the monsoon affecting the opposite (Northeast) side of the island. Conversely, during the Southwest (SW) Monsoon or Yala Season (roughly May to September), the prevailing winds are onshore (Westerly/Southwesterly) for the SW coast, bringing rain and generally creating choppy, less desirable surfing conditions. This same SW monsoon, however, produces offshore winds for the East Coast, making May to September the prime season for that area.

Tides

The tidal range in Sri Lanka is relatively small, typically less than one meter, but even small changes in water depth can significantly alter wave quality, particularly over the shallow reef and sand bottom breaks common in the region.

Low tide tends to decrease the water depth over reefs and sandbars. This can cause waves to break faster, steeper, and potentially more hollow, which can be desirable at some spots but may lead to closeouts or expose hazards at others.

High tide, conversely, increases water depth. This can make waves softer, slower, or mushier at certain breaks, but it can improve conditions at spots that need more water to work properly or become too fast/shallow at low tide.

Spot-specific tidal preferences are common: Lazy Left in Midigama is often best at low tide, while the point break at Hiriketiya works well from mid-to-high tide. Some spots like The Rock (Kabalana) and Midigama Left are surfable at all tides.

Gear Guide: Surfboards for the Southwest Coast

The waves in Southwest Sri Lanka are more mellow and playful compared to the raw power of destinations like Indonesia. In Sri Lanka the general character of the waves involves fun, cruising walls, with softer shoulders. Although it is possible on certain days at a few breaks, you’re not likely to get barreled here.

Given this wave profile, surfboards with a bit more volume are often recommended to maximize wave count and glide through flatter sections. Shapes like fish, funboards (Malibus), midlengths, and longboards excel in these conditions and are popular choices, particularly at spots known for longer, cruising rides like Mirissa Point or Lazy Right.

However, this doesn’t mean shortboards should be left at home. A standard shortboard remains a viable option, especially for intermediate to advanced surfers tackling the region’s better reef breaks (like Hikkaduwa’s Main Reef, Kabalana’s The Rock, Midigama’s Rams) or during periods of larger swell. While a dedicated high-performance shortboard or step-up might be excessive for typical conditions, having a versatile shortboard or a slightly higher volume “groveller” can be advantageous.

For a versatile quiver, consider bringing two boards: perhaps a daily driver like a fish or midlength for average days, complemented by a standard shortboard for bigger swells, lower tides, or a break like Rams. Tailor the choice to the specific types of waves intended to be surfed – a longboard for cruising points, a more performance-oriented board for punchier reefs.

Rent or Bring?: Exploring Your Options

Deciding whether to rent locally or transport personal boards involves weighing convenience, cost, and equipment suitability.

  • Local Rentals:
    • Availability & Cost: Surfboard rentals are widely available across the main surf towns (Weligama, Hikkaduwa, Midigama, Ahangama, Mirissa, Hiriketiya) from beachside shacks, surf schools, camps, and dedicated shops. Rental prices are generally affordable, ranging roughly from $2-7 USD per hour or $5-25 USD per day, with weekly rates often providing better value ($70-98 USD per week).
    • Quality & Selection: This is where variability is high. Basic beach rentals often feature older, heavily used soft-tops or basic epoxy boards suitable primarily for beginners. However, more established surf camps and dedicated rental shops (like Cheeky Monkey, Ceylon Sliders, The Board Hut, Kima Surf, Solid Surf House, etc.) often boast better quality quivers, including well-maintained epoxy boards and sometimes even performance PU (fiberglass) boards, longboards, and fish shapes. Some providers allow renters to swap boards during the rental period, offering flexibility. If you rent, inspect the board carefully for pre-existing damage before taking it out.
    • The Trade-Off: Renting offers undeniable convenience, eliminating airline baggage fees and transport hassles. The cost savings can also be significant depending on how long you plan to stay. However, if you’re advanced, finding a high-performance board that matches your preferences can be difficult, particularly outside of the larger, more reputable rental operations. The rental selection often leans towards beginner and intermediate equipment.
  • Bringing Your Own Board:
    • Pros & Cons: The primary advantage is surfing familiar equipment perfectly suited to one’s style and skill level. The downsides include navigating airline surfboard policies and fees, the logistical challenge of transporting boards, and the risk of damage during travel.
    • Airline Fees: Airline policies regarding surfboards are notoriously inconsistent and subject to change; always verify the specific, current policy directly with the airline before booking. Do your homework on potential airlines before booking your ticket if you plan to take boards. A surprise at the airline checkin counter is never fun.
    • Local Logistics: Bringing a spare leash and fins is wise, as local availability and quality can be inconsistent. Tropical water wax is crucial (water temp ~27°C+). It’s not easy to find and expensive when you do, so bring your own. The same goes for sunscreen.

Getting To The Surf Breaks: Transportation Along the Coast

Navigating the Southwest coast to access its multitude of surf breaks is part of the Sri Lankan adventure. Several options exist, each with its own benefits and drawbacks for surfers.

Tuk-Tuks, Scooters, and Other Options

Tuk-Tuks: These three-wheeled auto-rickshaws are ubiquitous in Sri Lanka and a primary mode of transport for surfers moving between breaks or heading into towns. They are relatively cheap, readily available in most tourist areas, and many have surf racks to accomodate your board.

Negotiate and agree on a fare before starting the journey. Costs vary depending on distance and negotiation skills, but it’s relatively inexpensive.

While there this year I saw a few foreigners driving their own tuk-tuk. It seems that self-drive tuk-tuk rentals have gained popularity, offering maximum freedom and flexibility to explore off-the-beaten-path. Daily rates typically range from $12-30 USD, often decreasing for longer rental periods. When renting it helps to have a valid International Driving Permit and potentially a local Sri Lankan recognition permit, which rental companies often assist with obtaining.

Scooters/Motorbikes: Renting a scooter is easy and you can get one with surf racks for no extra cost. Daily rental costs are typically around $5-10 USD. This option is particularly useful in areas like the Ahangama-Midigama-Weligama stretch where surf spots are more spread out.

Note for Renters: Sri Lankan roads can be chaotic, with unpredictable traffic patterns, buses driving aggressively, and potential hazards like animals or potholes; extreme caution is advised, especially for inexperienced riders.

Private Car/Taxi: This is the most comfortable option, particularly for airport transfers (e.g., Colombo to the Southwest coast) or longer inter-city journeys. However, it is significantly more expensive, with airport transfers costing upwards of $50-80 USD. While convenient for point-to-point travel, taxis are less practical and not cost-effective for hopping between nearby surf breaks throughout the day. Ride-hailing apps like Uber operate in some urban areas like Colombo but not so much outside of the cities.

Public Bus: The cheapest way to travel between towns along the coast. Buses run frequently along the main Galle Road. However, they can be extremely crowded and operate on eradic schedules. Transporting surfboards can be challenging; smaller boards might fit in luggage compartments (if available), or a second seat may need to be purchased. Drivers might refuse to stop for passengers with bulky items like surfboards if the bus is full. It’s an adventurous and budget-friendly option but requires flexibility and patience, especially with gear.

Train: Offers a scenic and affordable way to travel along the Southwest coast, connecting major towns like Hikkaduwa, Galle, Ahangama, Weligama, and Matara. Traveling with surfboards is permitted but can be difficult on crowded trains, particularly with longboards. Boards might need to be stored vertically near doorways or on overhead luggage racks. Booking 1st or 2nd class tickets might provide slightly more space.

Transportation Options Overview

MethodTypical Cost Range (USD)ProsConsBoard Transport Notes
Tuk-Tuk (Hired)$5-20 per trip (negotiable)Plentiful, cheap for short hops, authentic experienceNegotiation required, slower for long distancesBest Option: Boards easily strapped to roof; most drivers equipped, but bring backup straps.59
Tuk-Tuk (Self-Drive)$12-30 per day + deposit/licenseMaximum freedom & flexibility, cultural immersion, cost-effectiveRequires license/permit, learning curve, road hazards, slower than carGood Option: Rental companies offer surfboard racks ($1/day extra).84
Scooter/Motorbike Rental$6.5-12 per day + licenseIndependent exploration, good for spread-out breaks, cheap fuelRequires IDP, chaotic/dangerous roads, surf rack legality questionable/risky 41Risky/Difficult: Racks may attract police attention. Carrying in shoulder bag or DIY racks possible but affects handling.9
Private Car/Taxi$50-100+ (e.g., airport transfer)Comfortable, fast for long distance, good for luggageExpensive, less practical for local surf spot hoppingDifficult/impractical for frequent short trips with boards.
Public Bus<$1 per tripExtremely cheap, frequent on main routesCrowded, chaotic, potentially difficult/impossible with boards, slowVery Difficult: Boards hard to manage, may not be allowed if bus is full.41
Train~$1-5 per tripScenic, affordable, connects major coastal townsCan be crowded, potentially difficult with boards (esp. longboards), requires station accessPossible but Challenging: Easier with shortboards; requires careful management in crowded carriages.72

The Lineup Lowdown: Crowds, Vibe, and Etiquette

During the peak surf season (November to April), expect significant crowds at the most popular and easily accessible surf spots in Southwest Sri Lanka. The main breaks often have dozens of surfers vying for waves, especially during prime morning hours. The Christmas and New Year holiday period sees particularly high numbers.

Strategies for managing crowds include surfing early – dedicated surfers are often in the water well before sunrise to score cleaner conditions with fewer people. Exploring lesser-known breaks or those requiring a bit more effort to reach (perhaps via a longer tuk-tuk ride or walk) can yield significantly less crowded sessions. Visiting during the shoulder months (Oct/Nov, Apr) or the off-season (May-Oct) will generally mean fewer surfers, although wave quality and consistency might be compromised. Additionally, more challenging spots like Rams Right might naturally filter out less experienced surfers, leading to smaller crowds even during peak times.

Surfer Skill Levels and Demographics

The Southwest coast of Sri Lanka is particularly popular among beginner and intermediate surfers. Locations like the main beach break at Weligama are renowned (and sometimes notorious) hubs for surf schools and learners.

While learners form a large part of the demographic, advanced surfers are also present, drawn to the more challenging reef breaks like Rams, The Rock, Madiha Left, and various setups in Hikkaduwa that can offer powerful sections and barrels on the right swell. The lineups typically feature a mix of local Sri Lankan surfers and international visitors from various countries, with the majority of foreigners being European.

Local Vibe, Etiquette, and Potential Hazards

The general atmosphere or “vibe” in Southwest Sri Lanka is relaxed, friendly, and welcoming. However, this positive underlying vibe can sometimes clash with the realities of crowded lineups, particularly those dominated by less experienced surfers. At popular spots etiquette can break down leading to situations with multiple people taking off on the same wave, frequent drop-ins, snaking (paddling around someone to gain priority), and a general lack of awareness, including flying rental boards.

Some surf instructors will bring a group out to intermediate breaks, taking a lineup from organized and spaced to crowded and chaotic. The groups generally show up around 8am, so they can mostly be avoided by surfing early.

Potential physical hazards to note:

  • Sharp Reefs: Many of the better waves break over coral or rock reefs, which can be shallow and sharp, posing a risk of cuts, especially at low tide.
  • Sea Urchins: These are common inhabitants of the reefs and stepping on one can quickly end a surf session. Navigate shallow reef areas with caution.
  • Other Surfers: In crowded conditions, collisions and uncontrolled boards (especially large beginner rentals) pose a significant hazard.
  • Marine Life: Jellyfish and stinging plankton (sometimes referred to as sea lice) are mentioned as occasional visitors, more so during the SW monsoon period (off-season).

Final Call: Is Sri Lankan A Good Surf Desination?

Here’s what I would say:

Southwest Sri Lanka offers a compelling package for intermediate surf travelers but not so much for advanced surfers. Should you go?

Yes if… you’re most comfortable in softer, slower waves and/or you’re looking more for an inexpensive getaway with surfing as one of many activities.

No if… you’re looking to get barreled or surf world class waves. Sri Lanka simply doesn’t have the conditions for advanced surfing.

Why are the waves in Sri Lanka so much weaker than in Indonesia?

TLDR: Why are the waves in Sri Lanka so much weaker than in Indonesia? It’s a combination of a longer travel distance for swells, the steep drop-off of Sri Lanka’s continental shelf, and less direct exposure to the swells.

Weaker Waves in Sri Lanka

As surfers, we are students of the ocean. We have to be. Understanding the mechanics of swell and waves is as important as knowing how to read the wind. It can make the difference between catching the wave of the day or missing out.

I’ve been pondering a question lately: Why is it that when a big swell hits Indonesia, Sri Lanka seems to miss out? You’d think that if the same storm in the Southern Indian Ocean is creating the waves, they’d be just as powerful in both places. But that’s not the case.  

It’s a complex answer, but it’s a fascinating one.

The journey of a swell from its origin in the stormy Southern Ocean to the coasts of Sri Lanka and Indonesia is a long one, and distance plays a big role. Those swells can travel for thousands of kilometers, and as they do, they lose energy. Think of it like a marathon runner. The farther they run, the more their energy diminishes. Even though swells are efficient at holding onto their energy, the journey to Sri Lanka is longer, and that means they arrive with less power.  

But it’s not just about distance. The underwater landscape, or bathymetry, plays a huge role. Sri Lanka’s continental shelf is very narrow and drops off dramatically. This means the waves go from deep to shallow water very quickly. This causes the waves to shoal and break rapidly, losing their energy in a short distance.

Indonesia is different. In some places, there’s a complex forearc region . This means the waves travel over a more complex and wider shallow area before they reach the shore. This bottom friction saps some of the wave’s energy. But because Indonesia is closer to the source of the swell, the waves often have more energy to begin with.

Finally, there’s the simple matter of where the coastlines are facing. The western coast of Sumatra faces the best swell window. Sri Lanka is a bit more angled and also shadowed by the Maldives and India. Think of it like standing in the rain. If you’re directly in the path of the rain, you get soaked. If you’re at an angle, or behind something, you stay drier.

So, it’s not just one thing, but a combination of factors that makes the waves different in these two amazing locations. The journey the swell takes, the shape of the ocean floor, and the angle of the coast all play a part.

The Perfect Wave Fallacy

A fallacy is a mistaken belief or error in reasoning; something that might sound logical on the surface, but doesn’t hold up when you look deeper. One of the most common fallacies is the Appeal to Popularity, “Everyone believes X, therefore X must be true.” It’s a fallacy because popularity doesn’t equal truth: Just because a lot of people believe something doesn’t automatically make it correct. Throughout history, many widely held beliefs have turned out to be false (e.g., the Earth being flat, the Sun revolving around the Earth). These are fallacies.

When it comes to surfing and surf culture, there are plenty of fallacies. I’ve discovered and rediscovered one time and time again: The Perfect Wave Fallacy – when you form an unrealistic expectation of a surf break due to a limited amount of information in, overly optimistic thinking, and a few quirks of the human brain.

The Underlying Psychology

A collection of heuristics help explain why the surfer’s brain is susceptible to the perfect wave fallacy.

A heuristic is a mental shortcut our brain uses to make decisions or solve problems quickly. If you’ve ever heard a psychologist talk about heuristics, then you’ll be familiar with the common explanation that goes something like this,
“Our brains are wired to conserve energy. Instead of carefully analyzing every situation, we rely on quick rules of thumb — patterns we’ve learned from past experience — to make fast judgments. Most of the time, it works. But sometimes, those shortcuts lead us to the wrong conclusion.”

My experience as a surfer has been… watching highlights of the best surfers on the best day of the year at a foreign surf break and imagining:

  1. That wave breaks like that all the time
  2. I’ll be able to surf it like them

Knowing that my stoke level is simply the result of my expectations minus reality, and that being self aware helps clarify reality, I wanted to understand the psychology behind the perfect wave fallacy. These are the main pieces:

Availability Heuristic

This is the ‘big dog’ of all the biases and heuristics skewing our perception of far away dream waves. It describes the short cut of basing our judgment on information that comes to mind quickly, even if it’s not accurate or complete.

For example, after watching a lot of news stories about plane crashes, we start to believe flying is dangerous — even though flying is statistically safer than driving.

After going down a rabbit hole of YouTube videos on Skeleton Bay I start planning a trip, dreaming of a mile long barrel. In reality, not only does this wave rarely break, it’s also very difficult to get to, and quite challenging to surf. I’d be better off looking at the days per year it’s surfable (sometimes 0), footage of an average surfer trying to master it, and the logistics of getting there… then adjusting my day dream to account for reality.

Supporting the availability heuristic are two similar, but different components:

  1. Survivorship Bias
  2. Selection Bias
Survivorship Bias

Definition: Focusing only on the people or things that succeeded, while ignoring those that didn’t — which distorts the truth.

Example: I read stories about college dropouts who became billionaires and think dropping out increases my chances of success — but I’m not seeing the millions of people who dropped out and failed.

When it comes to a foreign surf break I most often only see the best day of the year. These are the standout sessions that make it into the YouTube videos, IG clips, and surf magazines. And like any good surfer I’ll daydream that this break has waves like this all year. The average or bad days are essentially invisible to me.

There’s a classic example from a classic movie: Based on one phenomenal day, we project this out to the future… believing that perfect waves goes unridden 300 days out of the year. This South African break, however, requires a less common swell direction for the area and is actually one of South Africa’s least consistent waves. (Not to mention development has changed the sand patterns and further decreased the beauty of Bruce’s)

Selection Bias

Definition: When the sample you’re looking at isn’t representative of the full picture because of how it was chosen.

Example: A medical study on a new drug only includes young, healthy volunteers. The results show great success — but don’t reflect how the drug performs on older or sicker patients.

When it comes to surf footage: Only the best waves survive the editing room.

Confirmation & Optimism Bias

These two brain quirks further reinforce the illusion of a perfect surf break modeled in the mind of a surfer.

Confirmation Bias: Once we get the idea that the wave is perfect, we look for more content that confirms that belief, getting hyped, and ignoring the stuff that doesn’t.

Optimism Bias: We believe the wave will be good when we get there because we’re overly optimistic, imagining that the small window we’re there, it will be just like the highlight reels we’ve seen.

It’s hard for me to overcome the perfect wave fallacy. It feels good to scroll and dream. But the whiplash of reality stings and the older I get the slower I recover. I’ve found more pleasure – authentic and lasting – in lowering my expectations. Tricking the mind the other way is possible. I can’t predict what the reality of a surf session will be, but I can rig the outcome by lowering my expectations beforehand.

4 Tips To Improve Your Surf Vacation in Japan

I spent a month in Japan and managed to get some good (not amazing) waves. I could have easily been skunked if it wasn’t for a few good local contacts and the flexibility to chase down swells.

Here’s what I wish I had known before I went and my quick advice on how to make the most of your surf trip to Japan:

Tip 1: Embrace Mobility

Like many places, in Japan there may be bad conditions in one stretch of coast and great conditions an hour’s drive (or even less) away. If you’re limited to the area you’re staying, you’ll need the waves to come to you. But with a car, you can go to the waves.

  • Swell Dynamics: Short-period wind swells, especially prevalent outside of typhoon season, can appear and disappear quickly.
  • Forecast Focus: Develop a keen understanding of swell forecasting, particularly for wind swells.
  • Strategic Positioning: Be prepared to relocate to areas where the swell’s energy will focus.
  • Transportation: A car is essential for efficient exploration and surf checks along the coast.

Tip 2: Tap into Local Knowledge

If you have a good local guide, you don’t need anything else. There’s a case to be made to just focus all your efforts on making connections and getting local tips. The challenge here is that you can’t guarantee you’ll meet someone nice who wants to share surf knowledge with you. But even if you can get a few tips, that could be enough to significantly improve your trip.

  • Invaluable Insights: Connecting with experienced local surfers can significantly enhance your trip.
  • Community Connections: Consider staying at surf hostels or guesthouses to meet fellow surfers and gather information.
  • Surf Guides: While not always readily available, local surf guides can provide invaluable expertise.
  • Online Resources: Utilize Google Maps and local surf forecasting tools, even if they require translation.

Tip 3: Improve Your Forecasting

You may not know the terrain, but you should be able to line up most other factors: swell, tide, and wind. The better you can forecast, the more higher your chances to score.

Utilize Technology:

  • Surf Cameras: Explore surf camera apps or websites to minimize driving time and identify promising spots.
  • Local Surf Apps: Even with a language barrier, Japanese surf apps can offer valuable clues (use translation tools if needed).

Adapt to Wind Conditions:

  • Variable Winds: Unlike regions with predictable wind patterns, Japan’s wind conditions can vary significantly.
  • Flexibility: Be prepared for anything from glassy all-day sessions to offshore mornings and sideshore afternoons.
  • Early Starts: While not always mandatory, starting early can allow for multiple surf checks and maximize your chances of finding good waves.

Tip 4: Manage Expectations

Proactively lowering my surf expectations might be the most helpful skill I’ve learned as a surfer, but it’s harder than it sounds. This can be a challenge due to The Perfect Wave Fallacy – how our perception of a wave is shaped when we’re only exposed to footage and pictures of the best days. So, keep in mind:

  • Swell Windows: Short swell windows can make scoring epic waves challenging, especially on shorter trips.
  • Embrace the Journey: Focus on enjoying Japan’s rich culture, food, and overall experience.
  • Flexibility is Key: Be adaptable and ready to adjust your plans based on swell forecasts and local knowledge.

By prioritizing mobility, tapping into local knowledge, and maintaining a flexible mindset, you’ll be well-equipped to navigate Japan’s dynamic surf scene and create a memorable experience, regardless of the wave conditions you encounter.

Forecasting for Japan’s Shoulder Season: The Winter

Thinking about a winter surf trip to Japan? While fall boasts the most consistent waves, winter offers lower crowds and still the potential for fun waves if you know where to go. Here’s what you need to know:

Japan Surf Seasons Overview

  • Fall (August-November):
    • Considered the prime surf season.
    • Post-summer sandbar formation.
    • Potential for typhoon-generated long-period ground swells.
    • Cooler temperatures and offshore winds.
    • Decreased crowds after September 1st.
  • Winter (December-April):
    • Typhoon activity diminishes.
    • Cold fronts from Siberia bring variable conditions.
    • Primarily short-period wind swells.

Winter Surf Conditions

Expect to rely heavily on short-period wind swells, which can be less powerful and consistent than the ground swells generated by fall typhoons.

Regional Breakdown:

Sea of Japan (West Coast):
  • Cold Siberian air masses create localized wind storms.
  • Limited fetch results in predominantly short-period wind swells.
  • Swells can develop and fade quickly.
  • Generally weaker and less predictable waves.

East Coast:
Northeast (Tohoku Region):
  • Exposed to North Pacific storms, generating significant swells.
  • Relatively consistent wave activity.
  • Frequent northeast swells.
  • Harsh winters with cold water and air.
  • Less crowded surf.
  • Mix of wind and ground swells, with potential for powerful waves.
Southeast (Izu Peninsula, Shikoku):
  • More variable wave climate.
  • Influenced by North Pacific storms and localized weather.
  • Milder winter temperatures.
  • Fickle swell action, with periods of flat conditions.
  • No typhoon swells.
  • Some more sheltered areas with less swell.

Key Considerations for Winter Surfing

  • Gear: Pack appropriate cold-water gear, especially for the northeast region.
  • Flexibility: Be prepared for variable conditions and potential flat spells.
  • Swell Forecasting: Track weather patterns closely, as swells can change rapidly.
  • Regional Awareness: Choose your location based on your tolerance for cold and your preference for wave consistency.

Surf Guide: Da Nang, Central Vietnam

Da Nang surfing in a nutshell: you can have the lineup to yourself, but there’s a good reason surfers aren’t flocking to central Vietnam. If you’re looking for a livable city that allows you to paddle out, it’s not a bad place.

Despite the long coastline, there aren’t many workable reefs or point breaks, particularly not any with easy access.

Forecasting – Knowing the Season and Conditions

Surfing in Vietnam is all about knowing when and where to look. The waves here are driven by short-period wind swell, and while there are good days, it’s not the kind of place where you score perfect, machine-like surf. If you come in with low expectations, are happy ‘just to get out’, and you can check the beach breaks regularly, you’ll have fun.

An average winter day in Da Nang
Surf At My Khe Beach Da Nang Vietnam
A clean winter day, on a small swell… sometimes a sand bank develops and small peaks can be found.
Surf Check in Da Nang Vietnam
Surf check on an average winter swell

How To Get The Most Out of Surfing In Da Nang

Like every other surf break, Da Nang does have its days. If you know how to forecast, what to look for, and how to get there you can get decent surf. But given a lack of quality data, clear info on surf spots, and lack of infrastructure these aspects can be a challenge.

I spent some time in Da Nang and figured out the basics. Here’s what I learned so you can get more from your trip.

Swell – The Important Factors

Vietnam’s central coast, including Da Nang, gets almost exclusively short-period wind swell. Any long-period swell that could hit this area is blocked by the Philippines to the east and by Hainan, China, and other land masses to the north. That leaves a relatively small window for swell to push through from the northeast or east. Because of this, it’s rare to see swell periods above 11 seconds. Most of the time, you’re looking at short-period waves—quick-moving, sometimes weak, but still rideable.

This wave height forecast is typical of a strong winter swell. Most swell reaching central Vietnam is generated by storms between the Philippines and Taiwan.

Wave size can get overhead, but because of the long, shallow sand bottom stretching far out to sea, the waves tend to be soft and crumbly.

Shallow waters off the coast of Vietnam make for lower wave energy reaching the shoreline.

Occasionally, when the period reaches 10 or 11 seconds, you might find some hollow sections, but they usually back off and reform rather than offering a long, barreling ride. Expect a lot of mushy peaks… which can still be fun with the right board but won’t offer you the same stokage you’ll find at world class breaks.

Winds – The Easiest Part of Forecasting in Da Nang

The wind in Da Nang is generally light and variable. Mornings are usually the cleanest, with light offshore or glassy conditions. By mid-morning to early afternoon, a sideshore or light onshore breeze can develop. It’s not uncommon for the wind to die for an hour in the middle of the day, then pick up again. Strong offshore winds are rare because the land temperature doesn’t drop enough to create that thermal effect. Some evenings glass off, but it’s unpredictable. Checking the wind forecast helps, but I’ve found most apps tend to overestimate wind strength.

Tides – Also Not A Big Factor

Tide swings are small, so they don’t play a huge role in surf quality. Certain sandbars might work better at a specific tide, but for the most part, if there’s swell, there are waves to ride.

You don’t need to closely monitor the tide here. Your best bet is the check regularly.

Forecasting Tools

Most of the usual surf apps do a decent job of tracking swell direction and size, but the wind forecast tends to be hit or miss. Since conditions change quickly—sometimes hour to hour—the best strategy is to check often. There aren’t many cams or detailed surf reports due to low demand, so local knowledge and keeping an eye on the conditions in real time will serve you best.

Board – Bringing Your Own or Buying One

Picking the right board for Da Nang’s waves does make a significant difference so it’s worth considering. The surf here is soft, often mushy, and the takeoffs can be tricky—waves roll for a while, then suddenly break before backing off again. Having the right amount of foam and flotation helps you get into waves early, maintain speed through weak sections, and still handle the occasional punch of a rogue peak.

Best Board for Da Nang’s Waves

If you’re coming to surf here, go bigger than your usual board. A mid-length is a great choice—it gives you enough paddle power to get into waves early while still being maneuverable. A fish also works well, offering speed and some playfulness when the sections break down.

A high-performance shortboard isn’t ideal unless you’re planning to sit inside waiting for the occasional fast-breaking section. The waves don’t have enough punch or structure for vertical surfing, barrels, or airs. You’ll have more fun on something with extra volume—think funboard, groveler, or even a longboard for smaller days.

One key factor: duck diving. If you plan to surf when it’s bigger (which happens about 30% of the time in peak season), you’ll want a board that you can still get under the waves with. The short-period swell here means waves break close together, with little time between sets. Turtle rolling a big board in these conditions is rough. The best bet is to ride as much volume as you can while still being able to duck dive.

Bringing Your Own Board

If you’re serious about surfing, bring your own board. The selection here is limited, and prices are high. When bringing your own board, prepare yourself for unreasonable airline fees—most Southeast Asian airlines have strict length limits and charge extra per leg of your flight. Some also count full dimensions (length + width + height), so check ahead of time. If you can stay within the limits, it’s worth bringing a board that fits the conditions here.

Once you’ve arrived, transporting a board around the city is easy enough. Taxi vans are readily available and can fit a board bag, so getting to your surf destination isn’t a problem. Once you’re settled, you’ll want your own motorbike setup (which we’ll cover in the next section).

Buying a Board in Vietnam

Buying a board here is expensive. The good ones are imported and come with a heavy price tag. There are a few local shapers experimenting with making boards in Da Nang, but the quality is hit or miss. Even those boards are pricey because all the materials are imported.

Renting a Board

If you’re only surfing a handful of times, renting is the easiest option. There are two main choices:

Beach Rentals – Basic soft tops, mostly for beginners. Cheap, around $10/hour or $15 for two hours. Good for messing around on small days.

Shop Rentals – Higher-quality boards, including shortboards and funboards. More expensive, but a better option if you want to surf properly.

If you’re planning to surf regularly, renting gets expensive fast. You’re better off bringing your own board and setting up your own transport.

Surfboard Rental at Da Nang Beach Vietnam
Look for these rental areas on the beach, typically open from 9am to 4pm

Wetsuit – Buying Online or In-Store

Vietnam’s water temperatures are moderate year-round, so wetsuits aren’t a huge concern. Most of the time, you can get away with just boardshorts or a swimsuit. But depending on the season and your tolerance for cooler water, you might want something for a little extra warmth. For early morning sessions, or a surf in the rain, it’s nice to have something light.

When Do You Need a Wetsuit?

Peak Surf Season (November – March): Water temps dip to the low-to-mid 20s°C (70–75°F). Some surfers wear a spring suit or a thin long-sleeve top for early mornings. If you surf a lot, you might feel the chill after long sessions, especially if the wind picks up.

Warmer Months (April – October): The ocean sits around 26–30°C (78–86°F)boardshorts and rashguards are all you need. Note that chances of swell during this period are very low.

If you’re used to tropical waters, a 1mm–2mm long-sleeve top can help keep you comfortable when the water cools down a bit in winter. Otherwise you’ll be fine.

Buying a Wetsuit in Vietnam

Your best bet is to bring one with you. Wetsuits aren’t in high demand here, so the selection is limited and expensive. Sizing for westerners is also a challenge. There are a few surf shops in Da Nang, but selection is limited and prices are high.

If you get to Da Nang and realize you’d be more comfortable with a wetsuit, ordering online is an option and the risk is relatively low. I bought a springsuit online for about $45 including delivery. It doesn’t quite fit right and the quality is low… but it’s good enough for the occasional morning / rainy session where I need it.

Other Gear to Consider

  • Rashguards – Useful for sun protection. The sun can be intense, especially during midday.
  • Booties – Not necessary. No reefs, no sea urchins, just sand.
  • Leash / Fins / Wax – Backups are helpful since these are harder to find / more expensive here.

Motorbike Setup

The best way to get to the surf in Da Nang is either by walking (if you’re staying close enough to the beach) or, more ideally, by having your own motorbike with surf racks. The ability to move up and down the coast gives you more options, especially if the sandbars shift or the conditions change.

Renting vs. Buying a Motorbike

You can buy a motorbike in Vietnam, but there are legal hurdles. If you’re staying longterm, you’ll need a valid international driving permit (IDP) or a translated and converted license. Vietnam does offer the option to exchange a valid motorbike license from your home country for a Vietnamese license. You can also apply for a license in Vietnam which requires passing the written (in Vietnamese) and driving test.

For most surfers, renting is the easiest option. A long-term rental runs about $50/month, which is reasonable. You’ll just need to add surfboard racks, and you’re good to go.

Adding Surf Racks

There are a couple of ways to get surf racks set up:

  • Buy Ready-Made Racks – The easiest option. The best place to get them is at the Japanese surf shop ‘Surf Shack’ in the main tourist area of My An. These racks are plug-and-play and fit most bikes. You might need a wrench to tighten everything, but once installed, they work well.
  • DIY Setup – If you want to save money or prefer a custom fit, you can build your own. Some locals do this by using metal or PVC tubing, attaching it to the bike with wire or brackets. A simple setup involves:
    • Fixing two tubes (one in front, one in the back) to hold rebar or metal piping.
    • Bending the rebar into shape to cradle the board.
    • Adding foam padding to protect the board.
    • Securing everything tightly with zip ties or bungee cords.
    • PVC-Only Option – You can even go full PVC, which works well for shortboards. It’s a bit flimsy for longer boards, but it’ll get you to the beach.
Pre Fab Bike Racks
DIY Bike Racks

Road Conditions & Parking

Da Nang is relatively easy to navigate by bike, and you’ll see plenty of surfers riding through town with boards strapped to their motorbikes. It’s common for guys to pull right up onto the sidewalk to check the surf.

Parking – With a bike, you can park on the sidewalk or along the street for free. Cars need designated parking areas, which cost a small fee and can be inconvenient if you want to be right by the surf.

Other Transport Options

If you don’t want to ride a motorbike:

  • Bicycle – A good alternative if you’re close to the beach. You can buy a basic bike at local shops and even DIY a surf rack.
  • Car Rental – Good for surf exploration beyond Da Nang, but not ideal for city surf missions. Parking is limited, and you’ll need an international license.
  • Other – Taxi is an option, but not a great idea if you’re wet and sandy. Public transportation is very limited. There is a bus system in the larger coastal cities and you can use it to the beach, but it’s less than ideal.

The Surf Community

Da Nang’s surf scene is small but growing. Over the last five years, the number of Vietnamese surfers has quadrupled. In 2020, you’d only see four or five local surfers out on a given day. Now, on decent swells, there are ten to twelve. It’s still mellow, and there’s plenty of beach to spread out.

Local Vietnamese Surfers

The surf culture here is still developing. As more Vietnamese get into surfing, access to boards and equipment is improving. Most local surfers are still learning, but there’s clear progression. You’ll see a handful of good local surfers out on better days.

On small, clean days, the water fills up with beginners on soft tops. They stick close to the rental areas, taking lessons, flailing, and generally getting in the way. If the working sandbar happens to be near them, expect some congestion. Otherwise, it’s easy enough to walk down the beach and find an empty peak.

There are designated swimming areas marked by buoys and ropes—best to stay out of these zones. Swimmers tend to fill these spots in the afternoon and evening, but in the morning, the surf is mostly clear.

Japanese Surfers

There’s a small crew of Japanese surfers who may be considered as the pioneers of surfing in Da Nang. The long-standing Surf Shack is owned and operated by a Japanese expat who arguably knows the surf here better than anyone else.

If you’re planning to spend a long time in Da Nang, it’s not a bad idea to stop by the shop and introduce yourself. They’ll likely give you a few local tips and may invite you on a surf trip to another break if you’re lucky.

International Surfers

There’s a regular mix of travelers, digital nomads, and expats in water. Some are experienced surfers who live in Da Nang, but most are just passing through. It’s an interesting mix—different levels, different styles, but generally friendly vibes.

The main surf zones in Da Nang are Holiday Beach in My Khe… most likely because this is the closest beach to My An… the tourist hub where 90% of visitors stay. This is by far the best place to meet other surfers.

Vibe in the Lineup

The lineup is mostly mellow. Crowds aren’t a big issue, but when a sandbar starts working, surfers cluster around it. Surf etiquette is loose—there’s no strict rotation, and it’s common to see people cutting each other off, missing waves, or almost colliding.

But no one seems to care. There’s no localism, no fights, and no serious tension in the water. The waves just aren’t good enough for that. Surfing in Da Nang is mostly an exercise in catching and staying in the wave. On a good one, you might sneak in a floater or a top turn with a little spray. If you’re lucky, you connect two or three turns before it fizzles out.

Expect chaos, keep your expectations low, and don’t take it too seriously.

Other Random Bits of Information

Fresh Water Rinse Stations – there are a few freshwater rinse stations along the beach.

Paid Beach Parking – some areas require payment for parking your motorbike. I recommend carrying a 10k or 20k VND note in case you need it.

Surf Exploration: Florida’s East Coast

A lot of great surfers come from Florida and I meet them all around the world. But Florida has never struck me as a surf mecca. I’ve always known that the conditions are mostly small except when hurricanes light up the coast.

So I went to Florida to see what the waves were like and experience a taste of the surf scene. Although I only got a small taste, I understand Florida surfing a bit better now. Here’s what I learned.

The Waves: Small but Seasonal Surprises

The surf conditions in Florida are, in many ways, similar to what you’d find all along the east coast. For most of the year, the waves are small, generated by short period wind swell. Most storms are moving across the North Atlantic from east to west, which pushes swell into Western Europe and Northern Africa. This is why surf in England, Portugal, France, and Morocco are known to get significant swell.

Florida might get a little residual kickback from these big storms, but if anything it’s not much. Most of the time the east coast of Florida is getting its swell from small offshore storms.

Regardless of the lack of consistent long period swell, there is a great surf culture on Florida’s east coast.

East Coast Florida Surf Culture

You can find surf shops and meet people who live and breathe surfing. I visited in the summer when the waves were small, and the lineup was pretty empty. It wasn’t the buzzing surf scene I’m used to seeing in places like California. But there are plenty of signs of a surf community in most beach areas: surf shops, surfboards on cars, and surf-themed restaurants.

Don’t forget… the GOAT is from Cocoa Beach!

The Vibe: A relaxed beach town vibe was an obvious trait of the beaches I visited in Florida. Maybe it’s all the long boarding or the weather. The winds here stay mellow longer into the day, meaning you can surf well into the afternoon. That’s a big difference from California, where onshore winds pick up mid-morning and often ruin the conditions. The warm water and consistently pleasant weather make wetsuits unnecessary most of the time. It seems like the kind of place where surfing is less about chasing big adrenaline rushes and more about enjoying the simple pleasure of being in the water – which I really appreciate.

Plenty of Space and Easy Access

Another thing that stood out was how uncrowded the beaches were. Florida’s east coast has a lot of coastline, and it’s not as densely populated as places like Los Angeles or San Diego. Even on summer days, I didn’t feel like I had to fight for waves. The abundance of accessible beaches probably plays a role in keeping the crowds manageable. Parking was never an issue, and getting to the water was always easy.

I’m sure beaches around Miami get crazy in peak season, but from my understanding this doesn’t match up with surf season. So as a surfer, the spring break crowds is a non issue.

Sandy Beaches and Friendly Breaks

The beaches themselves were beautiful—mostly wide stretches of white sand. Unlike California, I didn’t see any cliffs, rocky shorelines, or major erosion issues. The sandbanks seemed plentiful, which foster the right conditions for peaky waves once a hurricane sends swell in the right direction. I didn’t come across many reefs or structured breaks, but the sandbars alone seem to offer plenty of variety. It’s an inviting setup for surfers of all levels.

Hurricane Season: The True Test

From what I gathered, hurricane season is the highlight for Florida surfers. When the swells roll in, there’s a short window of perfect waves before the storm conditions take over. Although it’s probably not too crowded when the waves do come in, there must be a bit of a learning curve to know when it’s going to turn on. Surfing too close to a hurricane’s arrival can also be dangerous.

I’d need to spend a season and track my sessions carefully to learn how the surf works in Florida during a hurricane season.

Final Thoughts

Florida’s east coast surprised me. While it might not offer the year-round consistency of places like California, it has its own charm. The small, manageable waves and warm water make it a great spot for beginners or anyone looking for a relaxed surf experience. And for those willing to wait and learn, hurricane season is known to deliver peaky barrels with empty lineups.

J Bay Surf Festival 2024 Music Lineup

Weekend One: June 14 – 16

Friday, June 14

  • Max Hurrel
  • Chunda Munki
  • Funky G
  • Trist

Saturday, June 15

  • Majozi
  • Booshle G
  • The Good News Dudes & More

Sunday, June 16

  • The Sunday Disco (Celebrate Togetherness – Youth Day)
  • Whooligan (USA)
  • SKB (FR)
  • Detroit, Kix, Hot Pink

Comedy Takeover: June 20

Thursday, June 20

  • Namaste Bae (Rob Van Vuuren)
  • David Kau
  • Tats Nkonzo
  • Siya Seya
  • Music by Steven Sawyer

Seated Event – Limited Tickets

Weekend Two: June 21 – 23

Friday, June 21

  • Dean Fuel
  • Coyote
  • Jake White Disco
  • Elk

Saturday, June 22

  • Desmond & The Tutus
  • Bongeziwe Mabandla
  • Coasters
  • Funky G
  • Trist

Sunday, June 23

  • Sun-El Musician
  • Talia Zaken
  • Dean Fuel
  • Fox

J Bay Classic 2024 Surf Forecast

Today is the official starting day of the 2024 JB classic and here is the surf forecast outlook for the competition window. Looks like it’s going to be mostly waist to chest high surf through the week with some hope for head high surf on the last two days. Despite the lack of swell, the conditions are clean.

Competition Window: June 14 – 23

Surfline’s Forecast

Windy’s Forecast

J Bay Classic 2024 Surf Forecast

The forecast for the competition window for the J Bay Classic 2024 is looking to be small but clean. Here’s a detailed day-by-day forecast:

Opening Day: June 14

  • Afternoon: Slight bump in swell
  • Evening: Potentially decent session with low winds
  • Swell: Relatively small by Jeffreys Bay standards, but sufficient to kick off the competition

Day 2: June 15

  • Swell: Small swell in the water
  • Wave Height: Waist to shoulder high
  • Conditions: Likely enough to continue with the first rounds

Day 3: June 16

  • Swell: Very small
  • Recommendations: Ideal for longboard division
  • Potential: Possibility of some small sets despite the forecast

Day 4: June 17

  • Swell: Increase in activity, potentially the biggest bump of the week
  • Wave Height: Waist to chest high, with possible head-high sets
  • Conditions: Better in the morning with low and offshore winds

Days 5-7: June 18-20

  • Swell: Consistent but not very big
  • Wave Height: Waist to chest high
  • Wind: Mostly offshore and light
  • Conditions: Fun surf, but not large

Final Weekend: June 21-23

  • Swell: Potential for a decent swell push
  • Wave Height: Head high to overhead sets
  • Conditions: Potentially good surf to cap off the competition
  • Uncertainty: Forecasts may change, but there is hope for exciting final days

Overall Outlook

  • Conditions: Mostly small surf throughout the competition window
  • Professional Surfing: While not epic conditions, it will be interesting to see how the pros handle smaller waves
  • Forecast Changes: Keep an eye on updates as conditions may improve

Stay tuned for further updates and enjoy the J Bay Classic 2024!