Category: Musings

Like waves, I am simply a product of my environment. Each wave is subtly shaped by a multitude of factors before it takes its final form at the coastline. A slight change in bathymetry will mold the same swell into various shapes and sizes as it reaches its terminus. It’s incredible how the same swell, […]

Surfing, I’ve realized, is much more than the thrill of riding waves. Especially on the not-so-great days, it’s a recalibration of modern comforts, which helps me appreciate life outside the water. The Cold: Some early morning surf sessions become a battle with the cold. After getting out of bed and before getting into my sweats. […]

Surfing is like sugar. It comes in many forms and has a predictable affect on the brain. When sugar hits my tongue I get an immediate reward shortly followed by a strong craving for more. I can’t remember a single surf session where I’ve caught one good wave at the beginning the session and then […]

Does ‘trying to get the shot’ detract from the experience of surfing? I surf for the stoke and the afterglow that it brings me: peace of mind, elation, and the ‘everything is in it’s right place’ feeling. I also surf for the connection with nature and the exercise. And there’s a social aspect too. My […]

Something deep inside of me wants to do everything I know I shouldn’t. It feels like my heart is fighting my head. My heart: I want to quit. I want to drop out. I want to give up all possessions like a monk, live in a van, and just surf. I hate ‘the system’ so […]

I’m looking down the line at a peeling right-hander from the best possible vantage point. I’ve dropped in, my feet are set, I’m coming out of a shallow bottom turn, and I’m rising up the face of the wave to make sure I can get enough speed to make the next section. These first few […]

The end of a life, The end of the road,A relationship beyond repair.She be buckled. The magic is lost,Life from her gone,Body in tact but soul released,She be buckled. The urge to revive, Denying the inevitable,Moving on feels wrong, But she be buckled. One chapter closed, A new bond to be built, A tinge of […]

I want to dream about surfing. I wish I could dream about surfing. But I can’t. I day dream about surfing. I mind surf waves at the beach, in videos, and on the cams. I think about surfing before I go to bed. I think about surfing as I wake up. It’s usually the reason […]

I’m having a fun session with a few friends at our local beach break. The waves are the perfect size for a fun, playful session, and the sets are just big enough to make me a little nervous on the takeoffs. Exactly what I love! A set wave comes right to me. Yea, it’s a […]

Stoke = Expectations – Reality I never thought sandbagging myself could be so much fun. Sandbagging. Lowering the bar. Limiting expectations. It’s a tried and true method readily found in one form or another in most philosophies that address how to manage the human experience: the discomfort, suffering, and anxiety of life that seems to […]