The end of a life,
The end of the road,
A relationship beyond repair.
She be buckled.
The magic is lost,
Life from her gone,
Body in tact but soul released,
She be buckled.
The urge to revive,
Denying the inevitable,
Moving on feels wrong,
But she be buckled.
One chapter closed,
A new bond to be built,
A tinge of excitement dawning ahead,
She be buckled, but never forgotten.
Subscribe to get a little taste of stoke, delivered every Wednesday.
I want to dream about surfing. I wish I could dream about surfing. But I can’t.
I day dream about surfing.
I mind surf waves at the beach, in videos, and on the cams.
I think about surfing before I go to bed. I think about surfing as I wake up. It’s usually the reason I get out of bed in the morning and the cornerstone around which the rest of my day is planned.
But I never dream about it.
My dad dreams about surfing. He tells me about his dreams when I ask if he’s gone out recently, inferring that surfing in his dreams is just as good or better than the real thing. He’s even mentioned a few times that he dreams of surfing nightly.
Because I can’t relate, I get a small feeling that he is lying to me about it which sets off a chain reaction of thoughts and emotions I have trouble controlling. In an instant the box hiding my insecurities about our relationship is opened and my mind is flooded. Unfulfilled expectations, comparisons with my siblings, and my embarrassing immaturity are just a few of the insecurities I can identify. For each one I can identify there’s one hundred I can’t. Like the roots of a tree they dig down in ever smaller threads woven into my body.
I feel a flush of warmth through my body and the mounting pressure in my head I call frustration. In an effort to close the box before my emotions reach the surface, I quickly change the topic. Does he notice when I do this? Is he privy to this survival technique my brother and I have cultivated and relied on for all our lives?
I’m also jealous. I know how real dreams can be and how sweet the good ones are. I know how a good dream can have me waking up smiling while a nightmare can leave me shaken long into the day.
It would be nice to wake up feeling like I’ve already caught the wave of the day. Instead, I seek out that special feeling only surfing can deliver the hard way. I’m up early, checking the weather, comparing it with the forecast, adjusting calculations of where to go. Turning my wetsuit right side in, I’m second-guessing which board to ride and reminding myself to hydrate before leaving the house. Â
Subscribe to get a little taste of stoke, delivered every Wednesday.
I’m having a fun session with a few friends at our local beach break. The waves are the perfect size for a fun, playful session, and the sets are just big enough to make me a little nervous on the takeoffs. Exactly what I love!
A set wave comes right to me. Yea, it’s a nice one, the biggest we’ve seen all morning and peaking up perfectly. It’s the wave of the day.
Everyone sees I’m in perfect position for it and they start whistling. Even a stranger gets a little hyped and gives me a “Yhhheeeewww!”.
My mind starts racing… thinking about how nice of a wave it’s going to be. Thinking all eyes are on me. Thinking that it’s my turn to get some props from the boys! Thinking way too much!
What happens next?
There are 3 ways this can go:
Scenario 1: If I’m thinking to myself, “Everyone is watching, don’t fuck this one up!” I usually fuck it up; miss the wave, biff the takeoff, or make the drop but be too late to get down the line. What a waste of a wave!
Scenario 2: If I think, “Charge into this mother fucker, just focus on getting in. Just get in at all costs!” I usually catch the wave and make the drop, giving myself a good chance at making the next session. Not a hero, but still stoked, and certainly no kook!
Scenario 3: If I can focus, block everything out, and trust my muscle memory to do what I love doing the most… then I surf flawlessly. The props are earned, “damn that was sick!” “That was a noooiiicce one!” “Wave of the day!” And just a smile from the stranger is enough acknowledgment to let me know he’s jealous but still stoked for me.
The Introspection: On a solo surf trip in the middle of nowhere, like I am now, there’s no shortage of time. So after the forecasting is done, the podcasts are played, the book is finished, and my routine daydreams have played out… my mind wonders off to past sessions. I relive some of my favorite moments – surfing with my dad back home or the rare occasion when the core boys all paddle out together. And that sparks this recurring highlight of each session. It’s the wave of the day – where you’re either a hero for ripping it or a zero for biffing it.
So I ponder on this and wonder why it is that I have no problem shredding the wave of the day when I’m surfing alone, but blow it when all my friends are watching.
The Epiphany: In the first scenario, I’ve visualized my own demise. I thought about the things that could go awry. I focused on what could go wrong instead of paying attention to the things I needed to do right. I got in my own head. Instead, I need to find a way to block everything out and focus only on what is absolutely critical at that moment – catching the wave and making the drop. To make this possible in the excitement of the moment, I need a lock-down routine that’s easy to initiate.
Note To Self: How To Override Your Overthinking
The following is a note I wrote to myself, published here, raw, for your reading pleasure:
**Review this any time you find you’ve lost your focus and are eating it off the takeoff.**
Remember your mantra: “You have to charge into it, you have to charge into it, you have to charge into it…”
This mind trick comes from transcendental meditation. People have been using it for thousands of years. It works. Don’t second guess it.
If you start to think you’re too good for it, remember the benefits you’ve already reaped from this simple tactic (and the devastation you’ve experienced as a result of foregoing it):
Benefit 1: It helps you catch the wave. There’s nothing worse than having a great wave come your way and you don’t even catch it. Don’t be that guy!
This is especially true when the waves are overhead or bigger. You know how sketchy late takeoffs are when it’s sizable and let’s be honest with ourselves… You don’t exactly have a flawless track record. Take a second to consider the last time you thought you were in… and next thing you knew you were watching a perfect wave peel down the line from behind.
Benefit 2: Your mantra helps prevent chicken-dick syndrome.
(Note to reader: Definition: Chicken Dick – someone who is such a loser or kook that it’s safe to assume their dick is the same size as a chicken’s. Example: “Deryl pulled out the back when he could have easily gotten shacked on that section. What a chicken dick!”)
Listen dude, when you look over the edge and see that set wave start to throw, you can’t second guess yourself. I don’t even want to mention it here but to make my point clear to you I will. You can’t say to yourself, “Damn I don’t know if I can make that drop!”. Or, if you look down the line and you see that lip starting to curl you might think, “I can’t make that section!”. If that’s what’s in your head, you’re gonna end up pulling back, watching the wave peel away from behind… imagining how nice it would have been to be on it.
So remember this: It feels worse to watch that perfect wave peel away than it does to go for it, not make the drop, and get bounced off the bottom. At least in the latter case you get humbled by the sea, which isn’t pleasant but comes with it’s own benefits.
Also remember this: This is not a kamikaze approach to surfing. We’re talking about nice set waves that you know are makable. Bombing closeouts is a whole other game.
Also remember this: You have to go! This isn’t really a choice. We’re talking about the mutha-fucking wave of the day here! If for nothing else but entertainment for the rest of the crew in the water, you have to go.
Benefit 3: That extra paddle doh. (To be of most benefit in bigger surf and offshore winds.)
When that wave starts to lift you and you think you’re in, so you start to get up, only to find the wave rolling a few extra feet before breaking… Yep… That’s when you’re left looking like an idiot, halfway to your feet, as the wave rolls forward breaking without you. And you already know what happens next… You turnaround to find the next set wave bearing down on you. You’re just a couple paddles too far inside to make a clean duck dive. And you get mopped up!
So even when it feels like you’re starting to go vertical down the face of the wave, keep that mantra flowing and give it one extra paddle to securely launch into it. You gotta charge into it. Not slide in, or cruise in, or anything else. Charge it!
Don’t mess with the mantra
Final note on choice of wording here: You picked a phrase that includes the words ‘charge it’ for good reason. It kicks you into a mindset that this is a ‘big wave scenario’ even when it’s not. This gives you a little shot of adrenaline to give you that extra paddle boost and a little extra focus to get your feet set properly right off the bat. That’s quite a different physiological response than if you were thinking in fear, “Don’t fuck it up, don’t fuck this up, oh god please don’t fuck this up!”.
Remember your mantra: “You have to charge into it, you have to charge into it, you have to charge into it…”
Subscribe to get a little taste of stoke, delivered every Wednesday.
One thing that many surfers forget when riding the waves is that the chemicals from surf waxes on their boards don’t just stay on their boards; they end up in the water, posing threats to marine life and ecosystems. This is where the push for eco-friendly alternatives comes into play. This article delves into the development and adoption of sustainable surf waxes, exploring how they’re making a big step towards sustainability in the surfing community.
Surf wax is crucial for enhancing a surfer’s grip on the board. The traditional surf wax is typically made from a blend of petroleum-based paraffin wax, synthetic resins, and various additives. Paraffin wax, derived from crude oil, forms the foundational element of surf wax. Its low melting point and ability to harden at room temperature make it an ideal base for the wax.
Synthetic resins are often added to improve the wax’s durability and stickiness, contributing to the overall adhesive properties. These resins enhance the wax’s ability to adhere to the board, providing surfers with the traction necessary for maneuvering through waves effectively.
Additional components like softening agents, stabilizers, and fragrances may be incorporated to tailor the wax for specific water temperatures. Softening agents adjust the wax’s hardness, ensuring optimal performance in different climates. Stabilizers help maintain the wax’s consistency, preventing it from melting too quickly under the sun or becoming overly rigid in colder waters.
While traditional surf wax has been instrumental in the surfing world for decades, the downside lies in its environmental impact. The petroleum-based nature of its primary ingredient raises concerns about its contribution to water pollution and harm to marine ecosystems. As a result, the surfing community is increasingly turning its attention to eco-friendly alternatives to mitigate these ecological concerns.
Traditional surf wax, composed mainly of petroleum-based paraffin wax and synthetic resins, poses environmental challenges when it enters marine ecosystems. When surfers apply wax to their boards, the chemicals can leach into the water, introducing substances that may harm marine life. Certain components of surf wax, such as hydrocarbons found in paraffin wax, can disrupt the physiological processes of aquatic organisms. These hydrocarbons can be toxic and may affect the health of marine species, including fish, invertebrates, and even larger marine mammals.
Another threat of traditional surf wax is its persistence in the ocean. The wax can endure for extended periods, breaking down into smaller particles that contribute to the growing problem of microplastic pollution. As surfers ride the waves, fragments of wax may break off and become part of the microplastic content in coastal areas and the ocean. The accumulation of surf wax residues in coastal areas and on the ocean floor may also disrupt the intricate web of life. Sediment-dwelling organisms and other marine life may face adverse effects.
As environmental awareness continues to rise globally, there’s an increasing interest in using sustainable and eco-friendly products in different industries. This trend is evident in the surfing community, where consumers increasingly lean towards environmentally conscious choices. Surfers who have a solid connection to the ocean are starting to realize the impact their surf gear can have on marine ecosystems. This awareness helps in driving the demand for eco-friendly surf wax alternatives.
The growing interest in sustainable products comes from a better understanding of the environmental impact of conventional materials. Surfers are leading the way in choosing products with a smaller ecological footprint. This shift reflects a broader trend where consumers make choices aligned with environmental values, emphasizing the importance of products protecting the planet.
In response to eco-friendly alternative demands, the development of eco-friendly surf wax has gained momentum. Alternative waxes are often made from sustainable materials such as natural waxes derived from plant sources, beeswax, and other biodegradable components. These materials aim to provide the necessary grip and performance while minimizing the ecological impact of petroleum-based surf waxes.
Switching to eco-friendly surf wax offers benefits in multiple ways. Surfers enjoy a guilt-free ride, knowing their gear aligns with their environmental values. Simultaneously, the reduced ecological impact lessens the potential harm to marine life and ecosystems, contributing to the overall health of the oceans.
When switching to eco-friendly surf wax, consider the following criteria and tips to ensure its sustainability and maximize its practicality:
Stoke = Expectations – Reality
I never thought sandbagging myself could be so much fun.
Sandbagging. Lowering the bar. Limiting expectations. It’s a tried and true method readily found in one form or another in most philosophies that address how to manage the human experience: the discomfort, suffering, and anxiety of life that seems to keep the world turning.
Despite the best science and latest tech, we can’t seem to evade these feelings for more than a few fleeting moments at a time.
However, like many others in human history, I’ve found a moderate level of success in a few branches of this philosophical tree. Stoic and Buddhist practices have helped me reduce the amount time I spend on the hedonic treadmill and increase the amount of gratitude for what I already have.
Despite appreciating the benefits of these practices more as I’ve aged – like most rules and lessons of life – I thought this one didn’t apply to surfing. Why?
Reason 1: Surfing is untouchable. Surfing transcends all philosophies, religions, and sometimes (seemingly) even physics.
Reason 2: Surfing doesn’t conform. Let’s not forget about our roots. The seeds of the surfing culture (really not that long ago) were grown in a bed of counterculture; explicitly ignoring or intentionally defying the norm. Like an angsty teenager knowing your parents are right but defying them anyways just cuz, surfers have it in their DNA to blaze their own path and figure it out for themselves.
I’ve Changed My Mind
I know the threads of this old school surf mindset are part of me. I’ve somewhat successfully avoided the 9-5 ‘trap’, lived outside my home country more than inside for the last 10 years, and I still believe ‘if everyone is doing it, it must be wrong’.
But this all changed in the span of just one special surf session, an unexpected score.
Subscribe to get a little taste of stoke, delivered every Wednesday.
New High Score: How my expectations got blown out of the water and my stoke reached an all-time high.
I planned to just catch a few. 3.5hrs later I was completely gassed and stoked out of my mind. Here’s how it happened:
Looking at the forecast last night, I knew the swell was backing off and today would be slow. Since the next two days would be even smaller, I figured I should get out for at least a quick session just to get wet and keep myself in surf shape. There was a big swell coming in later in the week and I didn’t want to find myself rusty when the real surf arrived.
This morning nothing had changed. As expected, the swell had dropped. Cams were showing some swell still in the water, but it was clear that it wasn’t going to be the same as yesterday (which was mid-sized and really fun).
So I decided to take my time before leaving the house. I typically like to get out at first light to beat the crowd and enjoy the sunrise from the water’s level. But today’s mission wasn’t to beat the crowds or watch the sunrise. It was to catch a few waves and stay in tune for the upcoming swell.
That’s not quite what happened…
I checked my first go-to spot (which is where the cat incident happened). No one was out, but for good reason; it was quite small. I considered taking out my fish and waiting for the sets, which looked rideable, but then thought “let’s check up the coast a bit”.
Just a few miles north the coastline is more exposed allowing it to catch more swell. The waves can be a few feet bigger just around the corner. Today it was easily 3x. Must be the swell direction?
From my vantage point on the side of the road I could see only two guys in the water. The waves looked a little soft, but the tide was still dropping for the next hour and the sets were lining up nicely. The choice waves of each set looked like they were 7-10 turn waves. Giddy up!
At this point I had to re-adjust my mindset a bit. I started going through the checklist.
All YES down the line!
The next moment I was in the lineup with a few other guys who shared looks of amazement. Clearly none of them had expected such gems to be rolling in this morning but all of us were grateful to be there.
I got lucky on my first take and nabbed a set wave that lined up all the way to the inside. It was the type of wave that had just enough force to get a nice big bottom turn in but gave me plenty of time to make a nice cutback and line up for the next section.
I love waves that give you the power to get a rush off the takeoff and plenty of pushback off the top turn, but also break at a pace that allow you to be patient. No rushing down the line to make the next section. No clamping lip to scramble around. Just the linking-together of clean turns, all the way from the top of the wave to the bottom and back up again! And today closeout sections were rare.
By the 10th top turn I was literally laughing out loud and talking to my self, “oh my god”. (A few hours later I heard another surfer mutter the same words while he was on a wave, which really tickled me tinder. )
I pulled out of the wave and let myself fall off my board like a jumping fish falls back into the liquid where it belongs. I was 10 minutes into the session and already fully stoked. The pressure was off. No need to worry if the effort of my search would pay off. The effort of my entire trip out here had paid itself off in one wave.
The fact that there was no hype to live up to, no expectations about the number or quality of waves I would get, made it that much better. What a wonderful surprise.
I went on to catch many more waves. A few even topped that first one.
Now I’m stoked, sapped, and shuffling around the house in pure wonder; how can surfing bring such unexpected pleasure?Â
Subscribe to get a little taste of stoke, delivered every Wednesday.
John and Luke from Australia are living in a van, parked in the dirt lot atop the small cliff. They’ve driven the coast of France, Spain, Portugal, and into Morocco.
Dave from California rented a place, is working from home, and will be here all season.
Ciera and Jim from London came here for two weeks of sunshine, surf, and no work. (They got the sun, were skunked on the waves, but still stoked on the trip.)
Deryl didn’t get to go at all.
—
The Aussies have to shit out in the bushes each morning. They wake up before surfers start filing into the dirt lot atop the small cliff to do their business. Stumbling off to a nearby ravine where (hopefully) no one will notice, the routine is initiated. With each step their metabolism gets going a touch more, building the pressure in their bowels so when the secret spot is identified they waste no time with expulsion. As is such with our body’s rhythm, timing isn’t always perfect and a sleepy stumble can turn into an brisk walk.
With the relief of the day’s dirty deed done, a sense of optimism for the day swells inside. Rising from the ravine, eyes toward the sea, the boys are ready for their next mission: get a few waves before the crowds arrive. And the beauty of sleeping on-site is that these dudes almost always do!
But shitting in the dirt isn’t the only sacrifice these boys make for waves.
One morning as I was checking the surf and trying to glean some local knowledge about the break from them, a cat snuck into their van, chewed through a bag, and took a few chunks out of Luke’s sandwich. Upon discovery, the cat was chased out of the van and the damage was assessed, “Ahh shit mate!”
Luke: “Think it’s bad?”
John: “Nah, just cut that bit off.”
That cat struck again a few mornings later. This time it was to my surprise. The sound of my driver door closing surprised the cat – who having snuck into my car while I was checking the surf, really should have known I would be coming back. She jumped up from the floor of the passenger side banking off the headrest of the passenger seat and flinging headfirst into the windshield. The pure shock of unexpected wildlife in my car topped with flying fur and the sound of claws on plastic took my adrenaline from zero to sixty in about a tenth of second. This was not the adrenaline rush I had set out to achieve today.
Clearly freaking out and making a desperate attempt at escape, she was bolting for any sign of sunlight. Unfazed by the head-first launch into the windshield and surely fueled by her own adrenaline spike, she sprung up from passenger seat with a slamming and claw-scraping attempt at the passenger window. No luck there.
Landing back on the passenger seat she tried again for the windshield with the same paws-first prayer dive and the same rejection back to the seat. At this point I had also freaked out and miraculously made the split-second decision to get the fuck out of the car at all costs. A bite from a feral cat surely would have put a damper on my search for dream waves and I wanted no part of it.
She almost beat me out of the car as I opened the driver door as was gone into the shrubs nearby, at least as relieved as I was.
Come to think of it… a cat had pissed in my car about a week earlier when I left the trunk open as I was unloading my things. What is it with these Moroccan cats?
The cat fiasco would have normally left a big impression on me. Any time I get that level of an adrenaline spike, the event is imprinted in my mind (cheers to Huberman Podcast for recently explaining to me the science behind this). But by sheer luck, the waves I found just after created a flood of excitement that made me almost entirely forget the cat incident.
Subscribe to get a little taste of stoke, delivered every Wednesday.
We listen to the ocean differently.
Imagination
While some may listen to waves breaking on the beach as a calming mechanism to lull their brain activity… for a surfer it’s more likely to stoke the imagination.
A 3 second sound bite could lead to hours of day dreaming.
‘I wonder what that wave is like. Maybe it’s a perfect right hander stretching for miles. It sounds soft… must be a longboard wave… or maybe it’s just high tide. Yea, I bet this wave barrels at low tide.’
More often than not, the waves we dream up are better than the ones we actually get. But there are those special occasions where the ocean surprises us, or, more accurately, we surprise ourselves. The ones where we come out of the water physically tired but mentally energized. These are the occasions that imprint our memories and fuel our future dreams.
Anticipation
We often hear what we’re going to ride before we see it, which plays in to an important part of our surf imagination.
Waking up before sunrise in anticipation of a new swell, the only sense I have about whether the forecast was right is what I can hear. Woah, sounds like it’s crankin’!
My imagination starts spinning up vivid images of perfect waves or massive bangers. Did Surfline underestimate this one?
Better grab my step up!
Attunement
Surfers have the reputation of being out of tune with their surroundings. Spacey, air headed, or absent-minded might be a few adjectives a landlocked muggle would apply when asked about surfers. And in small slices of the day (when we’re dreaming of perfect waves), this description might be apt.
But in the water, certainly, we are attuned – in tune with our surroundings. In fact the heightened awareness and need to focus solely on what we are doing in that exact moment is one of the key factors that contribute to the surfer’s high (and subsequent addiction).
A surfer in the line up who is out of tune is like a guitarist playing off key. Everything else is flowing in sync, each small part coming together for an altogether smooth rhythm, except one piece throwing it off. It only takes one surfer out of sync in a lineup to cause dissonance.
Subscribe to get a little taste of stoke, delivered every Wednesday.
The growing plastic pollution has become a major environmental problem. It poses many threats to our environment, particularly to our oceans. According to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), about 14 million tons of plastic waste are going into our oceans yearly—that’s like the weight of 56,000 commercial airplanes! Even though we might not see the direct impact of this problem in our daily lives, the effect is far-reaching and concerning, affecting both recreational and ecological aspects of the ocean. Â
This article explores how plastic pollution affects surf breaks and marine ecosystems, examining the link between human actions and the health of our oceans. By understanding these connections, we can highlight the urgency of adopting sustainable practices to protect these vital natural spaces.
Before understanding the impact of plastic pollution on surf breaks and marine ecosystems, we must first find out the types of plastic that pollute these areas and where they usually come from.
There are various types of plastic that are manufactured, used, and discarded daily, with many ending up in the ocean and coastal areas. Here are some of the most common plastics polluting these regions.
Plastic pollution significantly affects the dynamics of surf breaks, leading to disruptions in wave patterns and compromising the overall quality of the surfing experience. Floating debris, including plastic bags, bottles, and fragments, can alter the natural flow of waves, causing irregular breaks and reducing the consistency surfers rely on.
Plastics in the water can interfere with the formation and trajectory of waves, making it challenging for surfers to predict and ride waves effectively. This disruption not only diminishes the enjoyment of the sport but also poses a threat to the unique characteristics that make each surf break special.
The proliferation of plastic waste in surf breaks introduces serious hazards to surfers, ranging from entanglement to potential injuries. Discarded fishing nets, often composed of durable materials, pose a particular risk. These “ghost nets” can entwine surfers and their equipment, leading to drownings and injuries. Additionally, smaller plastic fragments and sharp edges can cause lacerations, posing an unseen danger to those navigating the waves. The risk of injury is a concern for surfers and marine life, as they may inadvertently ingest or become entangled in plastic debris.
In addition to potential harm from discarded items like fishing nets, plastic pollution can become a breeding ground for bacteria and viruses. Microscopic organisms can thrive on the surfaces of plastic debris, carrying the risk of infection and the spread of diseases. Surfers navigating through polluted waters may unknowingly expose themselves to these health hazards.
Addressing plastic pollution is a matter of environmental preservation and a crucial step in ensuring the safety of those who enjoy the ocean’s waves. Efforts to mitigate plastic pollution must prioritize the conservation of surf breaks as safe and enjoyable spaces for surfers while maintaining the ecological integrity of these unique environments.
Coral reefs are also affected by plastic pollution. Microplastics, microscopic fragments resulting from the breakdown of larger plastic items, infiltrate coral habitats, causing physical harm and hindering their ability to thrive. For example, when a sheet of plastic waste entangled and covers the top of a coral reef, it will block out the sun from reaching the corals. This will prevent corals from photosynthesizing, which will eventually suffocate, starve, and kill them. According to recent research, 92% of all surveyed coral reefs in the study are covered in plastic.
Additionally, plastic pollution degrades water quality as toxins leach from plastics into the surrounding marine environment. This contamination not only endangers the health of coral reefs but also jeopardizes the entire web of life dependent on these vibrant ecosystems.
Marine wildlife faces dire consequences from plastic pollution, with entanglement and ingestion prevalent issues. Discarded fishing nets, known as ghost nets, create deadly traps for marine animals, leading to entanglement that can result in injuries, deformities, or even death. Moreover, marine species often mistake plastic debris for food, leading to ingestion. The indigestible nature of plastics can obstruct digestive systems, cause malnutrition, and introduce harmful chemicals into the animals’ bodies. This disrupts individual life cycles and has cascading effects on entire marine food webs.
Plastic pollution also threatens marine species that rely on specific nesting sites. Coastal areas are often prime locations for nesting sea turtles, seabirds, and other marine creatures. Unfortunately, plastic debris on these nesting grounds can obstruct access to nesting sites or entangle nesting animals, hindering their ability to lay eggs or care for their young. The disruption of these critical reproductive habitats jeopardizes the survival of numerous marine species, contributing to population declines and ecological imbalances.
Addressing the impact of plastic pollution on surf breaks and marine ecosystems requires concerted efforts and proactive measures. Here are key strategies aimed at mitigating the plastic problem:
Surfing is all about balance and nature, and it’s closely linked to keeping our oceans and coastlines healthy. As people get more worried about the environment, surfers start to care about using gear that’s good for the planet. In this article, let’s discuss the importance of sustainable surfboards, and check out some brands that are leading the way in making surfboards that are good for the environment.
Before delving into specific brands, it’s crucial to understand the environmental impact of traditional surfboard manufacturing. Conventional surfboards are often crafted using materials like polyurethane foam and fiberglass, which have significant ecological footprints. The production process involves harmful chemicals, energy-intensive procedures, and the release of volatile organic compounds (VOCs). According to a study at the University of California Berkeley in 2009, a single surfboard generates about 375 pounds of carbon during manufacturing. Imagine the significant carbon emissions on a large scale and continuous conventional surfboard manufacturing. Aside from that, the disposal of old or damaged boards further contributes to the burden on landfills.
Sustainable surfboards aim to address these issues by adopting alternative materials and manufacturing methods that are kinder to the planet. As surfers increasingly recognize the environmental impact of traditional boards, there has been a growing shift towards more sustainable options. Eco-friendly surfboards often incorporate materials such as recycled foam, bio-resins, and sustainably sourced wood. By opting for these alternative materials, surfboard manufacturers are reducing carbon emissions and minimizing reliance on non-renewable resources.
Let’s ride the eco-wave and explore some notable brands that have made significant strides in this direction. From recycled materials to innovative manufacturing processes, these brands are leading the way in the sustainable surfboard movement. They embody a commitment to delivering exceptional performance and shouldering environmental responsibility.
Firewire is known for its high-performance surfboards and stands out as a leader in sustainability within the surfing industry. Their dedication to eco-friendly practices is clear in using alternative materials like recycled EPS foam and Entropy Bio Resin. By integrating these materials into their construction, Firewire not only lessens environmental impact but also upholds the performance standards valued by surf enthusiasts.
Firewire’s TimberTek technology uses sustainably sourced Paulownia wood for the board’s exterior. This elevates the board’s aesthetic appeal and diminishes reliance on conventional materials that come with significant ecological costs.
Haydenshapes was founded by the renowned shaper Hayden Cox, who combines cutting-edge technology with sustainability. Their commitment to reducing environmental impact without compromising performance is evident in their innovative FutureFlex technology. These boards boast parabolic carbon fiber frames, enhancing strength and flexibility while minimizing the need for excessive materials.
Furthermore, Haydenshapes strongly emphasizes using recycled EPS foam and bio-resin in their manufacturing processes. This fusion of innovation and sustainability has rightfully positioned them at the forefront of eco-conscious surfboard design.
Lost Surfboards has a well-respected name in the surfing community; it has fully embraced sustainability without compromising the performance surfers crave. Their commitment to environmental responsibility is shown in using alternative materials like expanded polystyrene (EPS) foam and bio-resin.
What sets Lost Surfboards apart is their C4 Technology, which cleverly incorporates recycled EPS foam and sustainably sourced cork. This reflects a smart fusion of performance-driven design and eco-conscious choices and caters to surfers looking for top-quality boards while being mindful of their gear’s environmental impact.
Timber Surf Co. makes waves in the sustainable surfboard scene by seamlessly integrating craftsmanship with eco-conscious practices. They stand out for their innovative use of locally sourced, reclaimed wood in crafting surfboards. By using the wood that would otherwise go to waste, the brand significantly minimizes the need for new materials, resulting in a reduced ecological footprint. This imparts a unique aesthetic appeal to their boards and underscores their commitment to sustainability.
In addition to focusing on reclaimed wood, Timber Surf Co. uses eco-friendly resins to construct their boards. These resins are carefully formulated to reduce environmental impact, offering surfers a choice beyond mere aesthetics. This dual commitment to using reclaimed wood and eco-friendly resins highlights Timber Surf Co.’s dedication to providing environmentally conscious options for surfers who value performance and sustainability.
Sustainable Surf is an environmental non-profit organization of the global surfing community. Although not a conventional surfboard brand, Sustainable Surf has played a crucial role in driving sustainability efforts within the surfing industry. The ECOBOARD Project, spearheaded by Sustainable Surf, collaborates with various surfboard manufacturers to certify boards that meet stringent sustainability criteria.
The ECOBOARD label is a valuable indicator for surfers looking for eco-friendly options when selecting a new board. This label signifies the use of alternative materials, a reduced carbon footprint, and a minimal environmental impact. Beyond individual boards, this initiative catalyzes change, urging more brands to embrace sustainable practices and become part of the broader eco-friendly surf movement.
These brands represent just a fraction of the growing movement towards sustainable surfboards. As consumers, surfers can influence change by choosing products that align with their values. The transition to sustainable surfboards not only minimizes the ecological footprint of surfing but also sets a precedent for responsible manufacturing practices across the broader sports industry.
It’s important to note that while these brands are leading the charge, the industry as a whole is evolving. Inspired by consumer demand and environmental awareness, Surfboard manufacturers are exploring innovative materials and processes to reduce their impact further. As surfers, our choices today contribute to the future health of our oceans, ensuring that the waves we love will be there for generations to come.
This will close in 0 seconds
This will close in 0 seconds