Surfing, I’ve realized, is much more than the thrill of riding waves. Especially on the not-so-great days, it’s a recalibration of modern comforts, which helps me appreciate life outside the water.
The Cold: Some early morning surf sessions become a battle with the cold. After getting out of bed and before getting into my sweats. Between my sweats and my wetsuit. That first duck dive. The last 20 minutes of the session… waiting for just one more good wave I can be satisfied with taking in. Then back at the car between my wetsuit and my sweats.
And then there’s my feet. My damn feet! Why are they always so cold for so long?
My Feet: Even a standard morning session can put my feet to the test. When it’s cold a cobblestone path becomes a bed of nails and a slight breeze pokes at my numb extremities. A nick from a rock or a bruise from the back of my board hurt like hell and last longer than they should. Yet I refuse to wear booties until I’m at risk of frostbite.
My Stomach: An hour in to my session I start thinking about my next meal. Two hours in my dreams turn from a healthy breakfast to burgers, burritos, and candy bars. Anything beyond this and I’m elated to just have any source of calories.
The Reminder: It only take a small bit of exposure to the elements before I’m returning home grateful for what I took for granted just a few hours earlier when I left the house. A warm shower, a pair of Rainbows, and a PB & J are heavenly.
In my chase for waves the short-lived discomforts help keep the rest of my life in perspective.
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