Author: TheStevens

Something deep inside of me wants to do everything I know I shouldn’t. It feels like my heart is fighting my head. My heart: I want to quit. I want to drop out. I want to give up all possessions like a monk, live in a van, and just surf. I hate ‘the system’ so […]

I’m looking down the line at a peeling right-hander from the best possible vantage point. I’ve dropped in, my feet are set, I’m coming out of a shallow bottom turn, and I’m rising up the face of the wave to make sure I can get enough speed to make the next section. These first few […]

The end of a life, The end of the road,A relationship beyond repair.She be buckled. The magic is lost,Life from her gone,Body in tact but soul released,She be buckled. The urge to revive, Denying the inevitable,Moving on feels wrong, But she be buckled. One chapter closed, A new bond to be built, A tinge of […]

I want to dream about surfing. I wish I could dream about surfing. But I can’t. I day dream about surfing. I mind surf waves at the beach, in videos, and on the cams. I think about surfing before I go to bed. I think about surfing as I wake up. It’s usually the reason […]

I’m having a fun session with a few friends at our local beach break. The waves are the perfect size for a fun, playful session, and the sets are just big enough to make me a little nervous on the takeoffs. Exactly what I love! A set wave comes right to me. Yea, it’s a […]

Stoke = Expectations – Reality I never thought sandbagging myself could be so much fun. Sandbagging. Lowering the bar. Limiting expectations. It’s a tried and true method readily found in one form or another in most philosophies that address how to manage the human experience: the discomfort, suffering, and anxiety of life that seems to […]

New High Score: How my expectations got blown out of the water and my stoke reached an all-time high. I planned to just catch a few. 3.5hrs later I was completely gassed and stoked out of my mind. Here’s how it happened: Looking at the forecast last night, I knew the swell was backing off […]

John and Luke from Australia are living in a van, parked in the dirt lot atop the small cliff. They’ve driven the coast of France, Spain, Portugal, and into Morocco. Dave from California rented a place, is working from home, and will be here all season. Ciera and Jim from London came here for two […]

We listen to the ocean differently. Imagination While some may listen to waves breaking on the beach as a calming mechanism to lull their brain activity… for a surfer it’s more likely to stoke the imagination. A 3 second sound bite could lead to hours of day dreaming. ‘I wonder what that wave is like. […]